Trip Around Lake Victoria
“To travel is to live.” — Hans Christian Andersen
As we meticulously planned our journey, poring over maps and calculating driving distances, we envisioned a smooth road ahead. But as any seasoned traveller knows, the best-laid plans can often be derailed by unforeseen circumstances. Our itinerary mapped out a route from Nairobi to various destinations across East Africa, each stop promising unique experiences and adventures. Little did we know, the journey would test our resilience and adaptability from the very start.
“A good traveller has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving,” as Lao Tzu wisely said. While we aimed to plan our activities, we left room for spontaneity, knowing that some of the most memorable moments come from the unexpected. Our journey, estimated to span between 2700 km and 3200 km, was not just about reaching destinations but celebrating the experiences along the way. We embraced detours and deviations, understanding that they often led to hidden gems and unexpected adventures. As Fitzhugh Mullan aptly put it, “Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and celebrate the journey.” And celebrate what we did, making the most of every twist and turn in the road.
Day 1
This day took an unexpected turn due to technical issues that delayed our plans. The car we intended to hire required a windshield replacement, which consumed a significant portion of our day. Finally hitting the road around 3 pm, our destination was either Busia or Kisumu, with Kisumu being our eventual stop around 10 pm due to exhaustion. Opting out of continuing to Busia, we sought to experience Kisumu’s nightlife at the Black Pearl Club. Fatigue dictated our decision to stay overnight in a hotel, as our initial plans hadn’t included accommodation in Kisumu. Sometimes, travel throws you a curveball. This time, it landed us in a hotel that shall remain nameless (mostly to protect the innocent…or, well, us). Let’s just say the place had a certain, shall we say, “lively” atmosphere, thanks to the enthusiastic next-door club.
Things to note
When renting a car, consider adding an extra day beforehand for servicing. This should include but not be limited to the engine oil change, air filter replacement, coolant level checks and as we were to find out later a thorough check on the braking system; brake pads and whatnot. This proactive approach ensures smoother travel and helps you maintain your schedule effectively. Additionally, be prepared to adapt your itinerary if unforeseen circumstances arise — flexibility is key to a successful trip. While it may seem counterintuitive, having a full tank of gas can be advantageous, especially in areas where filling stations are scarce. Lastly, before venturing into the Lake Basin Region, it’s advisable to take antimalarial medication to safeguard your health.
Driving distance: 338 km.
Driving time: 6 hours 10 minutes.
Day 2
Given our disrupted schedule, we pressed on with our journey to Jinja at the earliest opportunity. While en route, we caught the Australian GP (disappointingly, Max had a DNF) and departed Kisumu promptly at 8 am. Arriving at the Busia One Border Stop by 10:30 am, we encountered our first significant obstacle: uncertainty about crossing the border with a rented vehicle. Fortunately, the car rental agency had a representative stationed at the border to assist with document processing. These included a Kenyan driving license for one of us (other licensed drivers also allowed to drive in the presence of the owner of the processed license), a copy of the car’s logbook, power of attorney, and COMESA car insurance coverage. Additionally, each of us carried a yellow fever certificate along with either a passport or a temporary which were a requirement for immigration. Despite the meticulous paperwork, the process consumed roughly an hour before we resumed our journey to Jinja. Along the way, we encountered three police stops. During the first stop, the officer inspected our passports. At the second stop, the officer brazenly solicited a bribe, citing the Easter season as a reason for his request. Opting to settle the matter with our currency, we paid a Ksh 300 bribe, bypassing further hassle. At the third stop, the officer questioned us about an alleged improper overtake despite the absence of a continuous white line. After a brief delay in our response, he eventually moved on. Jinja welcomed us at 2 pm, where we indulged in a leisurely lunch before embarking on tubing the Nile. Although some of our group initially hesitated due to aquaphobia, they eventually joined in the aquatic adventure. Tubing down the Nile and taking a refreshing swim proved to be the highlight of our trip so far. Wrapping up the day’s activities, we checked into the Brisk Hotel for a well-deserved rest.
Things to note
Ensure you possess a valid passport or temporary passport before embarking on your journey. If travelling by car, ensure you carry a copy of the logbook and comprehensive insurance coverage, preferably COMESA-approved. If the vehicle is not registered under your name, secure a power of attorney document. Take advantage of favourable foreign exchange rates by exchanging cash at the border rather than within the country. Don’t forget to purchase a local SIM card and load it with a data bundle for seamless internet access throughout your travels. Lastly, it’s prudent to have some Kenyan currency on hand for convenience.
Driving distance: 230 km.
Driving time: 4 hours 30 minutes.
Day 3
We recommenced our journey according to our original plan, heading towards Queen Elizabeth National Park. Despite our initial delay due to the need to exchange currency, we departed Jinja at 10 am, as we found ourselves with some unexpected tasks to attend to in town. Along the route, we marvelled at the quality of Uganda’s road infrastructure, although a section under construction proved to be a significant time deterrent. By the time we reached Fort Portal at 6 pm, hunger nudged us to partake in a meal, considering our uncertainty about the dining options in Kasese later in the evening. Savouring traditional cuisine, we pressed on towards Kasese, where our lodging awaited in an Airbnb we had arranged beforehand. However, a discrepancy in pricing arose, with the host insisting on additional payment despite our previous settlement. Nonetheless, we found solace in friendly card games, showcasing various players’ skills and camaraderie.
Driving distance: 449 km.
Driving time: 8 hours 45 minutes.
Day 4
Our adventure began with a visit to Queen Elizabeth National Park, where we embarked on a captivating game drive lasting about three hours. Following our wildlife excursion, we headed to Tembo Canteen, situated between Lakes George and Edward, for a delightful lunch break. Continuing on our journey towards Kigali, we encountered a humorous moment when a traffic police officer jokingly accused us of not having female companions. We promised to do better next time.
Arriving at the Gatuna border by 4:00 pm, we completed the necessary processing before proceeding to Kigali. Adapting to the change of driving on the right side of the road and adhering to traffic regulations, including speed limits due to speed cameras, presented a notable adjustment. Lacking internet access, we sought directions at Java restaurant, where we decided to dine. Despite our efforts, navigating to our Airbnb proved challenging, as we spent nearly two hours circling the same area before finally locating our accommodation. Some of us feared for our safety but we checked in alright albeit at midnight.
The language barrier became apparent for the first time during our journey when we realized our host spoke only Kinyarwanda and French, neither of which we were fluent in. We decided to forego a trip to Lake Kivu and instead redirected our journey to Fazenda Sengha due to fatigue.
Things to note
In Rwanda, the cost of exchanging currency at the border varies depending on the exchange office you choose. We had better exchange rates when we made payments using Visa debit cards whenever this was possible. It’s essential to have a SIM card with data due to the exorbitant roaming charges. Navigating the roads can be perplexing for those accustomed to driving on the left side. Adhering to speed limits is paramount for a smooth journey. By consistently obeying the limits, we successfully avoided any encounters with the police.
Driving distance: 323 km.
Driving time: 5 hours 45 minutes.
Day 5
We returned to Java for breakfast before setting off to explore Fazenda Sengha. Opting for an exciting package, we indulged in activities like archery, horse riding, zip-lining, and zip-walking, making it a fulfilling and rejuvenating day. Afterwards, we returned to town to pick up groceries before retiring to our accommodation. With dinner prepared and a quick refresh, we eagerly ventured out to immerse ourselves in Kigali’s vibrant nightlife, only to find that the clubs closed at 1 am, leaving us disappointed and returning home without experiencing the city’s nocturnal scene.
Things to note
If you’re planning to hit the clubs, it’s best to arrive early, as they typically close around 1 am.
Day 6
We explored the poignant exhibits at the Kigali Genocide Museum before immersing ourselves in the vibrant creativity showcased at the Inema Art Gallery. Founded by the talented brothers and self-taught painters, Emmanuel Nkuranga and Innocent Nkurunziza, the Inema Art Centre offers a glimpse into the rich artistic culture of Rwanda. Later, we ventured into the heart of Kigali’s nightlife, accompanied by a Rwandan friend and former classmate, adding a personal touch to our evening adventure.
Day 7
Our adventure led us to the vibrant city of Mwanza, Tanzania, marking our most extensive journey yet. Arriving at the Busisi Kikongo Ferry crossing at 9 pm, we were relieved to find it operational round the clock. Our taste buds were treated to the exquisite flavours of Bundi, a delightful rice dish paired with goat meat, at a local restaurant. Satiated, we proceeded to our hotel, where we smoothly checked in, ready to unwind after a day filled with exploration and discovery.
Things to note
The Busisi Kikongo ferry operates around the clock, ensuring continuous service for commuters. Travellers will find the pricing reasonable, with rates set at TZS 6500 for a saloon car and TZS 400 per passenger, making it accessible for all. Photography is prohibited at the ferry and we were found in violation of this with the ferry crew demanding a fine.
Driving distance: 540 km.
Driving time: 10 hours 30 minutes.
Day 8
During our excursion to Mwanza, our itinerary was rich with cultural immersion and scenic delights. Our first stop was the Sukuma Museum, where we delved into the vibrant heritage of the region. Following this enriching experience, we headed to Kijiji Bar and Grill for a delicious lunch, where serendipity introduced us to Juma Allan, embarking on a similar adventure albeit in reverse. Energized by good food and great company, we proceeded to explore the captivating exhibits of the Sanane National Museum. Our journey culminated with a visit to the awe-inspiring Bismark Rock, completing a day filled with memorable encounters and discoveries.
Day 9
As we journeyed back to Kenya through the Isebania border crossing, our trip hit a snag when we were pulled over for overspeeding on the Tanzanian roads. We lost half an hour when we had to drive back after a cop was mistakenly left with a driving licence belonging to one of us. Despite the hiccup, stepping onto Kenyan soil brought forth a sense of warmth and familiarity, a comforting reminder that we were finally back where we belonged.
Driving distance: 484 km.
Driving time: 7 hours 50 minutes.
Things to note
Ensure to get your driving license back from the cops.
Day 10
On our return journey to Nairobi, our plans took an unexpected turn due to a delayed departure from Kisumu. A mechanical glitch with the car demanded immediate attention, requiring us to replace worn-out brake pads and make some minor fixes on the car bumper. Despite the setback, we managed to make a detour to Kaimosi, where we explored Smith’s ancestral grounds, before resuming our trip to Nairobi. Our pit stop in Nakuru for dinner refreshed us for the remainder of the journey.
Driving distance: 390 km.
Driving time: 7 hours 20 minutes.
Conclusion
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As we finally arrived back in Nairobi on Day 10, our hearts brimmed with the memories of an unforgettable odyssey. Despite the challenges and unexpected twists along the way, each moment etched itself into the fabric of our collective experiences, weaving a tale of resilience, camaraderie, and the boundless spirit of adventure. And as we bid farewell to the open road, we carried with us not just the souvenirs of our travels, but the indelible imprint of a journey that had irrevocably changed us.
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